Intermediate course hemstitching and sewing machine attachments for producing the same



Nov. 13, 1934. v J slGODA 1,980,705

INTERMEDIATEEOURSE I iEMSTITCHING AND SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS FORPRODUCING THE SAME Filed May 6, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR-ATTORNEY- 0. Kiw -w Nov. 13, 1934. v. J. SIGODA 1,980,705

INVENTOR- Vzciarf ,flyozia M ATTORNEY- Patented Nov. 13, 1934 1,980,705INTERMEDIATE COURSE HEMSTITCHING AND SERVING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS FORPRODUCING THE SAME Victor J. Sigoda, Brooklyn, N. Y. Application May 6,1932, Serial No. 609,591

6 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines of the type employed forproducing ornamental stitching of the hemstitch variety, and the objectof the invention is to provide for use in connection with such machinesa novel spreader device for the production of a hemstitch pattern inwhich one or more courses of stitching connect the hemstitch cross barsat points intermediate the ends thereof.

In the art of hemstitching, certain of the fabric threads (warp or woof,as the case may be, according to the direction the hemstitch is to take)are withdrawn from the fabric, leaving only cross threads which aregathered into bundles so as to provide the alternating cross bars andspaces. At their opposite ends where they join the fabric with theundrawn straightaway threads, these cross bars are sewed by courses orruns of hemstitching. The individual cross bars are free of stitchingand are substantially of uniform size. In carrying out my invention, thehemstitch course or run connects the cross bars intermediate their endsand crosses the alternating hemstitch spaces. The individual cross barsare confined and constricted intermediate their ends by stitches of thehemstitch course. From the intermediate constrictions, the cross barsspread fan-like toward their opposite ends.

The spreader devices of my invention are so made that when they areattached to the needle holder or piercer holder of the machine theirblade or body portions will be disposed edgewise to the direction of thefeed of the fabric during the hemstitch operations. Owing to thisprovision, the cross bars are given the widest spread from one anotherat the points where the hemsitching takes place, and the course ofhemstitching may extend across the hemstitch spaces at the greatestwidth thereof.

My novel spreader devices may be used as an attachment in connectionwith any well-known sewing or hemstitching machine having an oscillatingfeed motion for the fabric and a sewing hook adapted for the productionof the lock stitches, to cooperate with a needle having up and downstrokes. The devices of my invention may be produced in the mannerhereinafter described, either as combination needles and spreaders, oras spreaders capable of cooperating with the sewing needles of themachine. When made in the combination form, the device is providedadjacent its piercing point, with an eye for carrying the stitchingthread and it may be attached directly to the needle holder. When madeas a spreader only, it can be attached "to the usual piercer holder andis provided with a groove for accommodating the needle. Both in thecombination form and in the simple spreader form,- my devices may bemade so as to produce a plurality of courses or runs of hemstitching atone time.

For the use of my devices','no changes-need be made in the sewingmachines the construction of which includes mechanism for operating theneedles up and down (in contradistinction to the lateral vibratingstrokes), mechanism for giving the fabric an oscillating feed motion(toward and away from the operator), and mechanism for operating asewing hook or rotary shuttle capable of cooperating with the needles toproduce lock-type stitches. An important characteristic of the presentinvention as compared with hitherto known types of machine hemstitchingc'onsistsftherein. that the cross bars are constricted intermediatetheir length by a course of hemstitching which extends across the spacesalternating with the bars.

With the foregoing and other-objects in View, the invention consists inthe construction and relative arrangement of parts so combined as tocooperate with each other in the performance of the functions hereincontemplated, and comprises in its evolvement the mode of production andthe simple and practical examples hereinafter de-' scribed andillustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein similar referencecharacters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views,and in which-a Figure 1 represents a front view, showing my combinationneedle and spreader as it appears to an operator when applied to theneedle holder for cooperation with the oscillating fabric feed and thesewing hook;

Fig. 2 represents a side view of the parts shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 represents an exaggerated perspective view of the combinationneedle and spreader;

Fig. 4 is a front view of another form of the combination needle andspreader, showing the same as it appears when applied to the needleholder; Fig 5 is a side view of the device shown in Fig. 4, parts beingbroken away and shown in section;

Fig. 6 is a front view, showing a spreader for use in conjunction with aneedle, the spreader and needle being here shown as applied, respec--tively, to a'piercer holder and a needle holder; Fig. 7 is a side viewof the spreader shown in Fig. .6;

. needle clamp;

Fig. 15 is an exaggerated plan view of a fragment of fabric, showing thehemstitch pattern which may be produced by forms of my devices such asare shown in Figs. 1 to 3, Figs. 4 and 5,

and Figs. 6 and '7, that form of the device illus-.

trated in Figs. 1 to 3 being shown in section in one of the hemstitchspaces;

Fig. 16 is an exaggerated plan view of a fabric, showing the hemstitchpattern which may be produced by forms of my device such as are shown inFigs. 8 to 10, 11 to 13, and 14, the form of the device illustrated. inFigs. 11 to 13 being shown in section in one of the hemstitch spaces;and

Fig. 1'7 is another exaggerated fabric plan, showing the hemstitchpattern which may be produced by the forms of my device illustrated inFigs. 8 to 10, 11 to 13, and 14, that form of the device illustrated inFigs. 8 to 10 being shown in section in one of the hemstitch spaces.

Indescribing my invention by views above referred to, I desire to pointout that I intend such views as illustrative of the variant exampleswhereby my invention may be applied in practice, and I do not limitmyself to the precise construction and arrangement of the parts shown.The following description is, therefore, to be broadly considered asincluding substitute arrangements and constructions which are theobvious equivalent of those shown. In referring to the type ofhemstitching produced by my novel devices, I shall make use of theexpressions .mid-course stitching and hemstitching and intermediatecourse stitching or hemstitching, and it is to be understood that in theuse of these expressions I do not intend to limit my invention in anyway, as these expressions are used for purposes of description only, andnot as terms of limitation. I

With more particular reference to Figs. 1 to 3, 20 denotes in general acombination needle and spreader, formed at its upper end with a stem 21adapted to be inserted in a suitable opening 22 in the needle holder 23and therein to be secured by a set screw 24 or equivalent device. Theblade or body portion 25 of the device 20 is oblong inform and is madeat its lower end with a piercing point 26. It is provided with athread-carrying eye 27 adjacent the piercing point 26. In the presentembodiment, the opposite edges 28 of the blade 25 are in divergingrelation to produce an expanded or enlarged portion 29 intermediate thelength of the blade; and said edges below the expanded portion 29converge as at 30 to produce the piercingpoint 26. v

This blade device is called a combination needle and spreader because itis threaded like the conventional needle and in operation spreads theweave of the material, and at the same time acts as the conventionalneedle in a sewing machine by taking the thread under the throatplate 31and cooperating with the sewing hook h the aid of the dog 33 which ismounted on the feed dog carrier bracket 34 to be given the usualoscillating feed motion for feeding the material forwards, backwards andthen forwards again in a manner well understood in the art.

According to an important feature of the present invention, the device20 is mounted in the needle holder so that the blade will be disposededgewise with respect to the direction of the feed of the material bythe oscillating feed dog. In the use of the combination device, a panelof the straightaway threads such as 35 must be drawn or removed from thefabric so as to leave, where the hemstitch pattern is to be produced,only the cross threads 36, as shown in Fig. 15. The combination deviceoperated by the machine in conjunction with the oscillating feed motiondivides or separates the cross threads 36 into cross bars or bundles 3'7alternating with hemstitch spaces or openings 38. Owing to the edgewisedisposition of the combination device, each cross bar as it is dividedoff or gathered is constricted as at 39 intermediate its length, and thestitching of the cross bar takes place atthe constricted point so thatin the finished product the cross barsfrom their intermediateconstrictions spread out fanlike toward their outer ends where they areunited with the fabric weave. As a result of the intermediateconstrictions, the spaces 38 are diamondshaped. r

In the operation of the combination device for the production of theintermediate constricted cross bars and alternating spaces, let it beassumed as an example that the combination device is in a space oropening 380.. Under the opera-' either side of the constriction so as totie the same. Then under the backward movement of the fabric, the devicewill again enter the space 38a and repeat the tying of the constrictedbar; and thereafter under the forward feeding movement of the fabric thedevice will again enter the space 38b, producing thereby the usualsocalled long stitch and lock stitching the same at the next succeedingcross bar. After this the cycle of operation is repeated tolock-stitchthe constriction of the next succeeding cross bar. By thisarrangement, the successive crossbars as they are separated out andconstricted intermediate their length, are lock-stitched at theirconstrictions,'with the run of thestitching extending across thealternating bars and spaces.

It will be' recognized that the blade body need not be made in the formshown in Figs. 1 to 3, but may be varied as may be necessary in orderbest to meet conditions incident to the character of the fabric, therelative sizes of the cross bars 1 i they unite with the woven fabric.

needle clamp which is secured in any convenient "or appropriate mannerto the needle bar 41. A double combination of this character may beemployed for the production of a double row of hemstitching 42, 42,connecting the same cross bars 43, as shown in Fig. 16; or for theproduction of two rows of hemstitching 44, 45. connecting the rows ofcross bars 44, respectively, separated by a panel of straightaway fabricthreads 46, as shown in Fig. 1'7. As shown in Fig. 16, the spacesoropenings 47 alternating with'the cross bars 43 are of ovate or oblongshape, owing to the fact that the two courses of stitching 42, 42 aretied in spacedrelation intermediate the length of the cross bars. InFig. 17, where a course of stitching 44 connects the cross bars 44' anda course of stitching e5 connects a row of crossbars 45, which rows ofcross bars 44', 45' are separated by'an undrawn panel 46, thealternating spaces 48 are diamond-shaped. It will be observed that theopposite ends of the cross bars 43, 44, and 45 are fan-shaped, thespreading of the bars taking place from their points of constriction totheir outer ends where In the use of the duplex device shown in Fig. 14for the production of hemstitch patterns as illustrated in Figs. 16 and17, the moving of the material by the oscillating feed and the mode ofstitching is the same as in the use of the single device illustrated inFigs. 1 to 3, which single device produces the hemstitch pattern shownin Fig. 15.

In Figs. 4.- and 5, I show another form of the combination needle andspreader, which may be used singly for the production of the hemstitchpattern shown in Fig. 15, or in duplicate in connection with the doubleneedle clamp of Fig. 14, for the production of hemstitch patterns, suchas are shown in Figs. 16 and 17. This form of the needle and spreader,denoted generally by the numeral 49 is produced at its upper end with astem 50 whereby to be secured to a needle holder or to a double needleclamp. The blade or" this embodiment is of channel-shaped form andconsists of a substantially straight web 51 which connects parallelsides 52, 52. Said web terminates at its lower end in a piercing point53 and is provided with an eye 54 for carrying the sewing or stitchingthread.

In Figs. 6 and 7, I show a spreader 55 which be used in conjunction witha conventional needle 56 for producing the hemstitch patterns. Theneedle 56 is mounted in the needle holder 5''! while the spreader 55 ismounted in any suitable piercer holder 58 which is operated by themechanism of the sewing machine in conjunction with the operation of theneedle holder 57, so that both parts are given up and down strokes. Thestem 59 of the spreader is laterally offset in such manner as may benecessary in order that the needle 56 will operate in the verticalneedle'groove 60 provided in the spreader.

The spreader 55 is disposed edgewise to the direction of the feed of thefabric; and it is the equivalent of a drawn-work spreader, its actionbeing similar to that of a piercer on a hemstitch machine. At this pointit is in place to remark that in a hemstitch machine, the needle orneedles vibrate in and out of the slots or grooves of the piercer,whereas in the use of the spreader 55, the needle does not so vibratebut works only up and down in the groove 66. The function of thespreader 55 in dividing and separating the cross threads into bars isthe same as that of the combination needle and spreader devices 20 and49. The spreader 55 can be used in connection with a single needlesewing machine or in connection with a machine having two or moreneedles.

It will be recognized-that the feeding of the material by theoscillating feed motion of the ma-' chine can be arranged to give alarger opening through the use of the devices 20, 49 and'5'5, by goingback on a previous stitch one or more times.

The feed of the material back and forth (t-o and from the operator) thenin advance a stitch or two can be controlled in various ways as will beunderstood in the art. For instance, as is Well known, the sewingmachine may be provided with cams for controlling'the feed raisingmechanism or the feed bar. By means of the oscillating feed motion, thematerial is fed so as to sew back and forth across the bars, whereuponthere is a long advance the length of which is one or more "stitches..By using a plain needle the repeated tying of the bars produces a boweffect on the drawn work. The use of devices such as 20, 49 and 55 makesthe bow effect more pro nounced. For the production of the bow eirect ondrawn work, the needle bar need-not be moved side to side as on thefancy-stitching.machines. On a sewing machine using-two needles a doublebow eii'ect can be made by tying the threads in two rows equivalent tothe distance the needles are apart. The drawing of the material threadscan be made at the same time the stitching is performed by using thethread-removing device illustrated and described in theappli'cation forLetters Patent of the United States, Serial No. 590,832, filed by me onFebruary 4, 1932, and copending herewith. The use of a double bladethread puller and shearer, as illustrated in Figs. 6, 7 and 6 of theabove-identified application, will remove the threads of the materialequal, to the distance of the two needles. To accomplish this purpose,the thread puller and shearer devicecan be placed in front of thecombination, device 20 or'co'mbination device 49, (when these aresubstituted for needles) or in front of the spreader device 55.

In Figs. 8, 9 and 10, Idisclose a spreader device of a duplex character,devised for use with a two-needlemachine. It will be seen that thisdevice comprises a stem 61 adapted to be attached to the piercer holder,a transverse web 62 depending from the lower end of the stern and twoparallel blades 63, 63 formed at the opposite edges of the web. Thisarrangement is such that when the stem is attached to the piercerholder, the two blades will be edgewise with respect ,to the directionof the feed of the fabric. Forthe accommodation of the verticallyreciprocating needles 6e, 64;, the blades are provided in their inner orconfronting faces with needle grooves 65, 65. This device may be usedwith atwoneedle machine for the production of a hemstitch pattern of thetype illustrated in Fig. 16; and it is equally capable of use, where itis made with the blades sufilciently spaced from one another, to producea hemstitch pattern of the character illustrated in Fig. 17.

In Figs. 11, 12 and 13, I disclose another form of the spreader devicefor use with a two-needle machine.v This form of the device hasa stem 66for attachment to the piercer holder, a web 67 and two parallel blades68, 68. In this instance, the needle grooves 69, 69 are formed in theouter faces of the blades. This form of the device is adapted for use inthe production of the hemstitch pattern shown in Fig. 17; and if thedevice is produced so that the blades will be sufficiently close to oneanother, it can also be used for the .production of a hemstitch patternof the type illustrated in Fig. 16. In the present embodiment, theduplex devices illustrated in Figs. 8 to 13 have their blades madeintegral with the web, but it will be evident that, if desired, theblades may be mounted to the web for relative adjustment thereon towardsand away from one another.

In practice, the needle clamp illustrated in Fig. 14 may be made so thatit can carry more than two blades for the production of more than twocourses or runs of hemstitching at one operation. The spreader devicesillustrated in Figs. 8 to 13 may also be produced, if desired, with morethan two blades in order to produce at one operation more than'twocourses or runs of hemstitching.

It will now be apparent that the variant patterns of my novel, usefuland ornamental hemstitching embody the same mode of construction in thatthe hemstitch courses are tied to the cross bars at constricted pointsthereof and so as to extend across the alternating cross bars andspaces; and it will also be apparent that the principles involved in thenovel and useful construction of a method for making the patterns may becarried out by hand as well as by the mechanical devices hereindisclosed.

While I have described my invention as comprising a certain mode oftreatment and have illustrated it with the aid of certain selected formsfor carrying it into effect mechanically, it will be understood that theinvention may be variously embodied. It has been sought herein toillustrate only such embodiments as suffice to exhibit the character ofthe invention. Reservation is, therefore, made to the right andprivilege of changing the form of details set forth or otherwisealternating the arrangement of the parts without departing from thespirit or scope of the invention or the scope of the appended claims.

1. A sewing machine hemstitch device including, with an oscillating feedmotion and a sewing hook, a blade to cooperate with the hook tolockstitch and produce a line of stitching, said blade having a' sewingpoint, spaced edges provided on the blade and extending upwardly fromthe sewing point, said edges being formed on extensions complementary tothe flat portion of the blade and lying in the plane of the blade sothat when the blade is disposed edgewiseto the feed motion andtransversely with respect to the cross threads of the work, itsextensions and edges will also be transversely disposed in respectthereto for spreading cross threads in opposite directions to form crossbars constricted between their ends'so as to give the bars a fanshapedform from the points of constriction, and aneye in the blade forcarrying to the cooper-, ating hook, thread to be lockstitched to thebars at the points of constriction whereby to maintain the bars infan-shaped form, with the line of stitching under the oscillating feedmotion extended between the lockstitched constrictions.

2.. The combination with a sewing machine having an oscillating feedmotion, of means for producing alternating bars and spaces in thematerial, comprising a blade attached to the stitching mechanism of themachine anddisposed edgewise with respect to the oscillating feed motiontobend and thereby constrict the bars at points intermediate their endswhereby to enlarge the spaces between the bars in the direction of theoscillating feed motion of the machine. I

3. The combination with a sewing machine having an oscillating feedmotion, of means for producing alternating bars and spaces in thematerial, comprising a blade attached to the stitching mechanism of themachine and disposed edgewise with respect to the oscillating feedmotion to bend and thereby constrict the bars at points intermediatetheir ends whereby to enlarge the spaces between the bars in thedirection of the oscillating feed motion of the machine, and an eyeprovided in said blade for carrying thread to be lock-stitched on thebars at the points of the constriction and which is to be extendedacross the enlarged spaces between the points of constriction ofthe'bars.

4. The combination with a sewing machine having stitching mechanismincluding a needle and a sewing hook to cooperate with it and having anoscillating fabric feed, of means for gathering cross threads of thefabric into cross bars to be stitched by means of the cooperating needleand hook, comprising a blade provided with a groove for the operation ofthe needle and disposed edgewise with respect to the direction of thefeed of the fabric, said blade having a piercing point and an edgewiseextension above it complementary to the fiat portion of the blade, saidextension extending in the plane of the blade transversely with respectto the cross threads and adapted, on entering the fabric, to divide andspread the cross threads into cross bars and subsequently constrict thebars at points intermediate their ends for the stitching'of the bars atsuch constricted points by the stitching produced by the cooperatingneedle and hook.

5. An article of manufacture, a fabric spreading device of the characterdescribed comprising a stem, a transverse web united with the lower endof the stem, a pair of elongated blades attached to the web with thebodies of the blades lying in planes intersecting the plane'of the web,

said bodies being provided with spaced edges adapted, on the spreadingmovement of the blades, to constrict bars of threads at pointsintermediate the ends of the bars, whereby to give the bars a fan-shapedform from the points of constriction.

6. An article of manufacture, a fabric spreading device of the characterdescribed comprising a stem, a transverse web united with the lower endof "the stem, a pair of elongated blades attached to the web with thebodies of the blades lying in planes intersecting the plane of the web,said bodies being provided with spaced edges adapted, on the spreadingmovement of the blades, to constrict bars of threads atpointsintermediate the ends of the bars, whereby to give the bars a fan-shapedform from the points of constriction, and grooves provided in the bladesfor the operation of needle mechanism adapted to stitch the bars at thepoints of constriction.

' VICTOR J SIGODA.

